While none of our jigs are considered “beginner” jigs, Our P3 jig is not a very “beginner friendly” jig. This jig is intended for experienced call makers. The P3 was designed to be flexible so, we don’t offer the same amount of information for the P3 as we do for the P1.
The most common solution to problems P3 users face, is the drilling depth. Most try and follow the standard 1/2″ rule or follow the specs for our P1 jig and frankly it is a completely different jig so they will not work.
4/10’s of an inch from the end, measured at the thick part of the drill bit (not the tip) is an ideal starting point.
This jig is NOT prone to top end lockup. If you are having problems with it locking up, more than likely your drilling depth is not quite deep enough. This may mean going deeper than the 4/10’s mark or lowering back pressure a bit.
The radius was left with some “meat” on it on purpose. This was something a lot of customers asked for. You can file down quite a bit and still have a good amount of upslope.
The cork notch was left a bit tighter on purpose. You can file on the top of the notch or cut your cork thinner if you need to.
This is our most asked question, so I figured I would take a little time to explain the difference in more detail.
The p2 jig, isn’t a “better” jig, so to speak. It is just a different jig. We have many customers that use both jigs, including myself. Setting the jigs next to each other, they are very similar. The differences are very small, but the sounds are still very different.
Simply put, the P1 would be described as a timber jig while the P2 would be described as an open water jig.
The P1 has a better bottom end. It is an easier blowing call. It does a nice feeder chuckle. The downside, is the top end, while you can still get a decent and loud hail call from it, wasn’t ever meant to be wailed on. It will work with wood or acrylic and can be made as a single or double reed, although I prefer it as a single reed. The cork notch is a hair bigger than the P2, which allows it to fit one or two reeds but can be cut short for a tighter fit. We have sold over 600 of our P1 and it is an easier call for beginner call makers to use.
The P2 makes a harder blowing call. You can easily make this call where you can blow as hard as you can and not lock it up. We designed this specifically for larger open areas and high wind. The bottom end, doesn’t do as well of a feeder chuckle due to the amount of air needed to blow this call but was never designed for that. I prefer it as a double reed call but can be used as a single as well. The cork notch is a hair tighter on the P2. It can be used with wood or acrylic. This jig was designed to make a hunting call rather than a competition style call. I have found it to work awesome in the later season.
2013 was an excellent year and I would like to thank everyone for their support and appreciate their business. Pintail has grown and changed considerably over the past couple years and we plan to continue that growth into 2014.
We wanted to let you know some of the things we have in the works for the new year. one are 100% set in stone, but all are definitely on the table.
New products we are working on for 2014:
Acrylic liquid abrasive finishing kit
Goose Call Blanks
Pre turned and tuned acrylic inserts
P3 Public Hybrid Jig (easily used for timber or open water, single or double reed)
Add an additional casting booth to double casting ability
Stepping up production to full capacity
Casting double of most colors
Dedicated machine for making jigs (already in place)
Having a back stock of at least 25 P1 and P2 jigs at all times
Upgrade all store software
Fixes to site navigation
New look for the site
Extended Support Hours
Completely redo and finish sister site MakeADuckCall.com with videos and more info
So as you can see, we have quite a bit planned for 2014. We have already begun work on a lot of these to make a big push to have them completed by mid-summer/fall of 2014.
This year we here at Pintail Waterfowl are going beyond jigs and call supplies and are trying to get into making decoy rigging kits and some other hunting products. We are trying to make a dog stand, that is affordable, yet still good quality with all intentions of staying under the $80 price range.
We WILL be casting blanks as soon as the weather begins to get warmer. Hoping to be turning out a dozen barrel blanks and a dozen insert blanks a day to stock up for the late summer/fall.
We have been talking with one supplier to be able to offer wood blanks as well.
We also have a couple other things up our sleeves if they work out!
For a video on how to use one of our public jigs, click here!
The number one problem customers have with our P1 public jig is locking up or not being able to really blow hard on the call. This usually is the result of having too much back pressure or not getting enough air under the reed and through the call. Usually just a bit of sanding or changing your dimensions slightly will result in a great sounding call.
I try to remind customers that even though we designed this to be a more refined jig, this is still a public jig. It is meant to cut the cork notch and the basic shape of the toneboard. A large part of having a great sounding call is still in the hands of the call maker. Our calls are made from this same jig, so great sounding calls can be made from it. No two toneboards are exactly alike. Two toneboards, cut from the same jig can have different sounds or need different amounts of tuning to get the same sound.
Here are some dimensions that will help get you started when making a duck call with Pintail Waterfowls P1 public jig. (NOTE** These dimensions will not work with our P3 Jig)
Here is another older write up I did:
We decided to put up some of the specs to help callmakers using our jig, troubleshoot any issues they may be having. While we have very few issues with out jig, 99% of the issues are with the call locking up. These issues usually pertain to having too small of an exhaust port or minor sanding.
Exhaust port (Fig A) . Our calls use a large exhaust port of 1/2″. These taper down to 1/4″ of the course of 1.5″ (fig C)
Drill depth stops exactly 1/2″ before the end of the toneboard (Fig B)
Our reed are cut at a 45 degree angle on the end (Fig D)
Lastly, if the dimensions you use are exactly to the specs provided in the picture, and you are still locking up, a little sanding is needed (Fig E). A very light (1000 grit) sanding is usually all the needs to be done. This is usually done from the end of the toneboard in the undrilled area (Fig B) and roughly 1/4″ under the reed. The sharp cut at the end of the toneboard can also be rounded over a bit. Another trick, is to run your thumb, under the reed to “flex” it up just a hair to help get enough air under the reed.
What is a public jig or public duck call jig? A public jig is simply a duck call toneboard jig, released for public purchase. This jig may be a very basic jig, for no more than help cutting the toneboard notch and the basic radius or based off a custom jig, which allows for a more easily finished product, such as Pintail Waterfowl’s public jig which is actually the basis for their calls.
There are lot’s of jigs available commercially. Some sold on Ebay for cheap can be used but attention should be paid to things like quality, material used, amount of hardening, etc. There are also some very overpriced jigs available so shop wisely.
Recently we made a change to our public and custom jigs. We moved the securing set screw, used for holding the toneboard in the jig, back away from the cork notch so it doesn’t put pressure on the notch during and after cutting.
We use this set screw instead of a big allen head bolt or screw to minimize the marks left on your toneboard after cutting!
Specs and details on Pintail Waterfowl’s Duck Call jigs
Length front to back: 2.25″
Width side to side: 2.0″
Toneboard Channel Diameter: .625″
Notch height: .18″
Notch Depth: .40″
Toneboard radius: Top Secret!
Click for larger image
What makes Pintail Waterfowl’s Public duck call jig unique from other public jigs on the market? We designed this jig from scratch. We wanted a jig that that would produce a toneboard that needed very little tuning, had a good, “ducky” sound right out of the jig. This makes a great all around jig for veteran call makers who want to crank out great sounding calls without spending the time and for new call makers who don’t have the tuning experience.
We didn’t just crank our a jig and call it a public jig. We went through three prototype jigs to get the sound we were looking for before finally hitting the nail on the head. Essentially we created a custom jig, then released it as our public jig!
After talking to numerous customers who are currently using our jig, most of them say very little sanding is needed just on the down slope or the radius to get this call to sound great. Most say the sound is very “ducky”.
We are so proud of our public jig, that ALL of our calls that we offer are made right from our public jigs!
If you have purchased one of our jigs and are having any problems getting a toneboard tuned to sound great, feel free to contact us. We work closely with a couple veteran call makers who use our jig regularly and provide lots of advice and feedback to us as far as drilling depth and exhaust shape and we are more than willing to offer this advice to our customers.
If you have tried at making your own custom call jig out of wood or plastic or whatever and it didn’t work out as planned and you are ready to get a custom jig made, we offer various ways to go about this. We can take your CADD files or custom toneboard in either wood, acrylic, or delrin and by use of a shadowgraph, make a digital copy of your toneboard. This allows us to get a perfect radius for perfect duplications.
Once your jig is completed, we will send it off to heat treat where they harden it to 60 rc for years of use. Since our jigs are made in two pieces, the distortion during hardening is VERY minimal. Once piece jigs tend to twist more due to being an L shape. This also allows for easier cutting and in turn a lower cost for our customers. We are able to heat treat our jigs before cutting if you desire this, but you really are just wasting money.
After heat treating, our jigs are double checked for tolerances, sandblasted and cleaned up, checked for burs in the threads, and have new hardware installed before being shipped to you!